Thursday 5 July 2012

My Neighbour's House

My neighbour’s house is one of the most charming buildings I have ever set foot in. It is on the corner of the street but is set back off a courtyard, further away from the road than the other buildings. The house itself is a wonderful coming together of Ottoman arches, French windows and faded blue and white paint coats. Vines grow through yellowing Almaza crates left on the patio. There are almost as many balconies as there are windows. The interior is equally handsome. Shelves made of doors, vintage Beirut photo art, streetlights, shop signs and other relics from a previous lifetime all contribute to the nostalgic atmosphere.

Most of the buildings in the section of Mar Mikhael in which I live date from, I think, the early part of the 20th century when the Armenian community started to spread across the river from neighbouring Bourj Hammoud. I have no idea how old my neighbour’s house is, but it is certainly a lot older than any of the others nearby.

The house is slated for demolition. The owners, presumably seeing the land as the asset, rather than the building, have ostensibly decided to replace it with a bigger, modern building that will use more square metres and provide more property to rent out. The new building would likely be of the faceless grey concrete variety, just like countless others springing up all over Achrafieh and Hamra as quickly as the heritage of these areas disappears.

There’s a story going around about the reconstruction of Downtown after the war years had left it razed to the ground. During excavations, an unprecedented amount of Roman ruins were discovered underneath the foundations of the destroyed buildings. So many, in fact, that the authorities didn’t know what to do with them. While some were preserved and can be seen today, many were cast aside, thrown into the sea in the headrush of progress. Throwing Roman ruins into the sea? This is the country that takes the wrecking ball to buildings that would be untouchable almost anywhere else. 


Bonsoir and bon voyage, New York

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